Tattoos, Tourbillons, and the Whirlpool Galaxy: Roger Dubuis and Dr. Woo Redefine Watchmaking’s Outer Limits
Luxury watches and tattoo artistry may seem like distant worlds. One stems from centuries of Swiss precision, the other from modern subcultures and personal expression. But the four-year collaboration between Roger Dubuis and Los Angeles-based tattoo artist Dr. Woo has quietly—and artfully—blurred that line. Their newest creation, the Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III, proves that high horology and minimalist ink can indeed orbit the same universe.
Unveiled in mid-June at Dr. Woo’s intimate “Hideaway” studio behind the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, the new timepiece completes a trilogy that has taken collectors on a journey from Earth to the stars—and now deep into the cosmos. Guests at the launch weren’t ushered through a typical luxury showroom. Instead, they gathered barefoot on vintage rugs, cocktails in hand, as Woo shared the philosophy behind his latest celestial vision.
“This time,” he explained, “we’re not just looking up at the stars—we’re in them.”
The first watch in the trilogy, released in 2021, was inspired by the artist’s love of geometric forms and astral patterns. The second added celestial bodies like the sun and moon, tying into humanity’s emotional relationship with the sky. Episode III pushes the boundaries even further, drawing direct inspiration from the Whirlpool Galaxy—Messier 51a—some 31 million light years away. Captured in mesmerizing detail by NASA’s James Webb Telescope, its swirling galactic arms serve as the visual and thematic heart of the design.
For Dr. Woo, whose real name is Brian Woo, the leap from skin to skeletonized movements wasn’t as intimidating as one might imagine. “At first, I was overwhelmed stepping into the world of high watchmaking,” he admits. “But as I spent time with the watchmakers, I realized how much we shared—apprenticeship, discipline, detail. That level of dedication felt instantly familiar.”
Nicknamed the “We Come in Peace” edition, Episode III is housed in a 42mm case combining 18K pink gold with titanium. It’s equal parts architectural and poetic. Woo’s signature elements return in subtle, stylized forms: a spider crawls across the case, cryptic symbols circle the bezel, and—most arresting—a miniature spacecraft, crafted through 3D galvanic growth and coated in pink gold, floats just above the sapphire crystal.
Every detail is layered with metaphor. Three pink gold nebulas shimmer beneath the sapphire at 9 o’clock. Between 10 and 11, a rose-gold spiral structure represents a black hole. Flip the watch over, and the same spiral appears again—this time darkened and surrounded by a checkerboard motif, suggesting a path out of the void.
On the caseback, a message is inscribed like a galactic time capsule:
“Let’s work together to uncover the mysteries of the cosmos and unlock the secrets of the universe. To whoever finds this message, know that we are seekers of knowledge and explorers of the unknown.”
At 7 o’clock, Roger Dubuis’s signature flying tourbillon takes its rightful place—this time with a custom-designed cage: titanium on the bottom, a sleek three-arm bridge on top. Only 28 pieces will be made, each priced at $180,000.
Laurent Toinet, President of Roger Dubuis Americas, says it best: “I could talk endlessly about the movement—it’s beautiful—but honestly, just try to spot the spider.”
Though born from the world of tattoo artistry, the piece never feels gimmicky. It’s not trying to shout its origins. Instead, it invites you to look closer, to uncover something quiet, deliberate, and mysterious.
And maybe that’s the point. These aren’t just timepieces—they’re micro-sculptures, storytelling devices, and philosophical objects. For some, like a Parisian astrophysicist who once had his first tattoo done at age 50—coordinates of the exact place he saw the Milky Way for the first time—objects like these are personal totems. For others, like Ethan, a vintage watch dealer in New York’s SoHo district, his first Roger Dubuis wasn’t just a watch—it was, as he put it, “how my father taught me to value time.”
In an era where “collaboration” can often feel like a buzzword slapped on for marketing, this one stands out. It isn’t just a meeting of two aesthetics, but a shared reverence for craftsmanship, imagination, and the wonder of the unknown.
Luxury, at its best, transcends function. It becomes a vessel for meaning—and that, perhaps, is what this interstellar tourbillon represents most of all.